Powered By Blogger

Tuesday, September 06, 2022

Patas Blancas new routine

               Patas Blancas would be so much easier to deal with if he were gelded.  While I prefer dogs and cats who are sterilized, because they behave better indoors, I feel differently about the horse.  In my fantasies my beloved horse is a stallion, not a gelding.  It is my way, complicating my life by eschewing the easy way out. 

               When Martin was here in January, he helped me out taming the wildness of my three acres.  He did not discuss with me that he had a horse, much less what he planned to do with it.  That is a pity.  If we had discussed it, he would have had time to build a corral and stable for the animal, making a proper home for the animal.  Instead, he left the horse with a neighbor, the guy he worked for during his short visits, and who supplied him with housing.  That was a poor plan, as it turned out. 

               After passing from hand to hand, Patas finally has a home here with me.  Thanks to Tomas, we finally have the infrastructure set up for him.  Tomas is a young man, mid thirties, who went to high school in the States before he and his family returned to Nogales, another tiny village in the district of Canatlan.  Having a worker with whom I can speak English is so much easier.  He anticipates my needs, he gets the subtleties when we chat, about my expectations.  Within a week he and his cousin built a fence around a quarter of these three acres.  My friend Lupita’s husband built the stable a week earlier.  Now Patas has a routine, and like any child, he is responding well to having his day follow a predictable pattern.

               In the morning, as the sun rises, I bring malted grain to the stable where the horse softly nickers to me.  When the grain is consumed, I clip a lead onto his bridle and walk him the twenty feet to the gate of his corral.  He follows docilely, and spends the day roaming and grazing the lovely green growth.  It is rain season, so there is plenty of that.

               As the sun sets, I walk the horse back to the stable where I have laid fresh sawdust for his bed.  I am currently out of hay, so there is nothing for him on his feed tray.  Coincidentally, that means less poop for me to scoop in the morning.  Last night he was at the far end of the field, near the road.  I called him.  He slowly walked the distance, as I stood patiently waiting at the gate.  He let me clip the lead to him, and he calmly walked to the stable.  Soon I think I can leave off the lead.  No more biting, no more trying to push me down.  He seems much happier now, and less aggressive.

               Tomas’s cousin is well-experienced in horse husbandry.  It was a joy to see the two of them ‘break’ the horse to the saddle.  Tomas held the head firmly in control, while Cousin mounted the horse and held on for dear life as Patas tried to buck him off.  Cousin stayed on the horse, using only a rope across the mouth as ‘brakes’, and rode him up and down the pasture for an hour.  The following day the guys were busy with their work, repairing roof leaks, cutting grass, and did not try to ride the horse.  The following day, however, I asked Cousin to ride him again to further teach the horse.  This time I gave them the unmatched rigging I had, of harnesses and bits.  They put together a rig that fits well and works, and so this time, for the first time, the horse rode with saddle and bit.  It was glorious to see.

               There is an interesting detail of the Mexican saddle that presents a dilemma to me. I don’t know the proper nomenclature for all the parts of the saddle, so I clumsily describe it here.  There is a strap that goes under the horse and secures the saddle.  There is a leather strap coming down to meet it, and allows tightening of the saddle.  The saddles I used in the States have a length of leather with holes punched, to allow the cinching to the buckle on the under strap.  Here that length of leather is very long, and it is wound round and round upon itself until the strap beneath hugs the horse tightly, and the cinch is buckled closed.  I find that it takes more strength than I am capable of, to tighten that strap.  My challenge is to take the saddle to a leather worker, and have it cut down to the size I need to cinch the strap simply, directly.  I suppose that the buckle is not well engineered, so that it might slip out.  Is that the reason for needing to loop the leather so many times around itself?  I do not yet know.



               In Mexico that type of short strap is associated with a ‘Texas’ saddle.  There are other subtle differences, but I have only seen that type on the internet, for sale through Mercado Libre, the online shop for all things Mexican.  Certainly the base of the whole saddle, the seat, is made differently.  The saddles I saw online from Texas have the horn and top edge covered in leather.  Here, it is just a big piece of molded plastic, and the horn is left exposed.  From videos I’ve seen on YouTube, the American  seat base seems to be made of different material and more lightweight.  Whereas a good Mexican saddle can be purchased here in town for about $200 - $250 USD, the Texas saddle sells for $600 and must be ordered.

               I am a master of procrastination, so I need a boot in the butt to get me down to town with the heavy saddle, to find a shop called ‘Miguel y Miguel’, the shoemakers. 

               Just as I was making breakfast today, having just turned on the drip coffeemaker, the power went out.  Here I sit with no power, so I can’t watch my Tuesday favorite TV show, ‘Hollywood Medium’, the Tyler Henry show.  Yesterday I exhausted myself cleaning up the house, the stacked dishes and the muddy floors, and also made a fresh batch of Bran Muffins.  Tomas, the worker, did not show up for work yesterday or today, so I have no one to supervise.  The silence is deafening.  So I head off to town, dragging the heavy saddle with me, and hope that when I come back the power will be on.

               A heaviness has lifted off me, now that Patas Blancas’ life is well moderated, and he is happier. The next challenge in front of me is to actually ride him.  He needs the exercise, and so do I.  Martin tells me he will be here is a few weeks and stay for a month or three.  He anticipates bringing a female horse as a companion for Patas.  Twice the maintenance expense and work, but in time we might have lovely colts to sell.  This justifies keeping him a stallion, too.

               So, without further delay, I am off to town.


PS  I tried adding photos of the saddle.  I will check again later to see if they downloaded correctly, and if not, try again.


Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Creation and its anthropomorphization

 

I believe in God, the father almighty, creator of heaven and earth.

In the manual laid down for us, tutoring us in relationship to this god, it says “I am the potter, you are the clay”. 

A potter grabs a lump of clay and throws it onto the wheel.  The clay has no idea of what it is meant to become.  The potter has the intention, the concept.

Whatever the Creator is, we its creation are incapable of fully knowing it.  Mercifully, it has spread seeds around in its garden to germinate into philosophies and theologies that create concepts simple enough for our minds to grasp.  The Hindu creator is a flame, with three main functions: creator, sustainer, destroyer.  Their theology recognizes a pantheon of gods who roamed the world in flesh, and that wield specific powers.  The Christian creator is an old man with a white beard sitting on a throne in clouds.  He operates through a unique creation, Jesus the Messiah. Those who successfully follow the ‘handbook’ go on to be recognized as ‘saints’, having realized while in the flesh more of the power of the spirit.  This Christ concept is composed of three functions:  Father, Son and Holy Spirit, or Creator, Destroyer, Sustainer.  Jesus is the destroyer in that He conquered, or destroyed, the power of death.  His teachings tell us to die to self and be reborn to the Spirit, the sustainer.  Those who somehow know not to anthropomorphize the creator call it, simply, the Source.

We live in a creation.  The Hindu word of samsara describes the illusionary nature of it.  It is a world of duality.  Opposites exist, and are the tension that moves us.  Good, bad, success, failure, up, down, angels, devils, alive or dead.  We are spirit in nature, whatever that means.  It is an ethereal concept; spirit has no physical manifestation.  Our fleshly shell obscures the perception of the spirit.  With work, we can thin the veil of obscuration to varying degrees.  At greatest density, we as children are drawn to tales of good, be they fairy tells or Bible stories.  We want to believe in good, unless we are born into a family where all good has died, and total obfuscation dominates.  Our culture leads us to a structured form meant to teach our spirit its true nature; religion.  Some of us are born with a long way to go, at the end leaving the shell behind having never leapt free of the structure.  Others seem to be born with a thinner veil.  It is easier to see the value in the spirit, and so we cultivate it more carefully; greater leaps of faith are possible.  And a rare few can throw the trace of veil off quickly, and live a life of awareness.  We mere mortals cannot conceive of life in that awareness, though we try.  In the presence of holy men, like the Pope or the Dalai Lama, the force of their consciousness can be felt.  A weakening in the knees, a light-headedness, or just a rare warm glow comes over us.  There is something there, and that reaction is probably as close to perceiving the spirit physically as we can come.

Negative stances over particular (or any) religions are a product of samsara. Love/hate duality does not exist in the purely spirit world.  It is interesting to watch Tyler Henry[1], a rare gifted soul, communicate between the two worlds.  Granted, what he is bringing us is a tiny picture of the whole of reality.  Nevertheless, it is clear that we drop this dualistic stance when we leave the flesh behind.  On ‘the other side’, the predominant perception is love.  Negative emotions fall away.

Knowing this, why do we cling so strongly to our love/hate dualistic reactions to what arises in our lives? Why do we allow the dross of this world, the mudslinging, the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune[2], to cling to us and toss us into tempests of negative thoughts and deeds? In Shakespeare’s words, it is nobility of mind that permits us to suffer negative blows, rather than react to them.  Is it suffering?  In Buddhism one learns a basic concept.  Suffering is at the root of samsara. They are commonly known as ‘The Four Noble Truths.’ Suffering is a constant to all life on earth.  It is our reaction to suffering that matters.  The causes of suffering are numerous, but boil down to clinging to the ego.  How I am perceived, how much I possess, what will bring me to success and its pursuit.  The third truth is the most difficult to perceive, that there is an end of suffering.  Once that is accepted, one must also accept the path that will lead to the end of suffering, wherever you may find that path.

We study meditation in its various forms to find the way out.  Meditation is not a Buddhist ‘thing’, it permeates all forms of spirituality.  In the Medieval text, The Cloud of Unknowing, Christianity finds deep roots in the monastic tradition of meditation.  Thomas Merton[3] has masterfully shown the East and the West that quieting the mind, dulling the dualistic pull of our nature, is at the core of the quest to know our spiritual nature.  This practice is universal, not confined to any one ‘religion’.  

We would not jump out of an airplane without a parachute strapped to our backs. We would tumble, be batted about by winds, and ultimately smashed by the force of gravity.  With our relatively ignorant human minds we would be equally at danger if we sought to know the creator by flying free.  The spirit world, while at its core is benevolent, nevertheless is fraught with negative forces that, for their own reasons, do not want us to find release into this Sea of Love, this freedom from suffering.  It is necessary to explore the many Paths out there, find the one you are most comfortable with, and stick with it.  None less than the Dalai Lama has said that it is not wise to mix Buddhism and Christianity.  Choose one and stick to it.  You will not be slammed by Buddha or Christ if you do, but rather the difficult path will be made muddier, more difficult, by trying to mix and match.

I have heard that Billy Graham said no religion is perfect, because all religions are manmade.  That is deep.

When I say that I am merely the steward of my life, my possessions, it is an acknowledgment that creation is, at its core, benevolent.  For your clarification, if I must further say ‘God’ gives me everything that I need, and all that I own comes from ‘him’, I am not ceding to the concept of an anthropomorphized source of creation.

I rest in the ‘arms’ of this benevolence.  Bad things happen, there is negative energy roaming this planet.  It is unreasonable that I am privileged to not know helpless poverty and violence, while so many good people know that suffering.  I do what I can to generate positive energy into the universe, express to the creator daily my deep gratitude, and pray that should such suffering befall me I will not be crushed, but will feel the eternal goodness under me like wings bearing me aloft.  I pray the same for you.

 



[1] Tyler Henry, born 1996, is a clairvoyant who allows his sessions with individuals to be videotaped and viewed on E! Television Network, as the Hollywood Medium.  Some interviews can also be seen on YouTube

[2] Shakespeare, Hamlet Act 3 Scene 1

[3] Thomas Merton, b. 1915, was an American Trappist monk and ordained Catholic priest.

Monday, August 15, 2022

His Name is Pata Blanca

 


Junior, or Gordo, has a real name: Panfilo, a heroic name in Mexican history. He was finally able to cross the border, and arrived safely to his hometown in eastern Indiana.  He could become annoying with his constant chatter, but at heart I loved the big lug.  He came south with his big brother, Chavello, a couple years earlier,  and roomed with him in the house belonging to the rancher for whom the latter worked.  When Chavello returned to the border to continue his work there, Junior was at a loss.  Victim of a blow to the head as a preschooler, his brain injury limits him a lot; he’ll never be able to live independently.  He soldiered on nobly, taking his laundry to Canatlan, using Western Union to collect money from his Stateside siblings, but really he was struggling.  Of his many brothers and sisters, Chavello seems to be the only one who attempts to help him.  Once he was gone, the rancher forced Junior out. 

               It is just as well that he got back home.  His mother, battling cancer for many years, was happy to have her baby boy, 38 years old, 6’2” and 370 pounds, home with her for the last year of her life.

               Chavello came back this spring to Durango to work for a few weeks with the old rancher.  It was lonely for him without his baby brother.  While he was here he made himself very available to help me on my little farm.  He tells me Panfilo calls him, demanding that he not forget to help me.  It was overgrown with native wild sunflower plants, which can grow well over six feet and with very strong stalks.  He quickly wrangled those sunflowers out of my walled garden space, and burned them all.  He tilled the plot and hewed out rows, so that by the time he left, my garden was once again ready for spring planting.  In the open fields, he cut down the bushy sapling huizache trees that were always popping up.  I was sad to see him return to the border.

               One day I was out in my field trying to burn off some of the dry brush around my small peach orchard.  I had a hose at ready, and a rake, but there was so much dry brush that I could not contain it.  The adrenalin flowed as I rushed back and forth around the edges, beating down the flames only to have them pop up again.  The smoke filled the air.  A car rushed up the drive and slammed on the brakes.  In a heartbeat, Chavello had seen the smoke and rushed over from the neighbor’s farm to see if I was in trouble.  We got the fire under control, and of course he admonished me for not being smarter in my burning.  He was right.

               I noticed he had brought a horse with him on this trip.  I told him I would like to take care of the horse; I have experience and I have the space.  But he chose to leave the horse in care of his employer. 

               After some weeks I noticed the horse was no longer in the neighbor’s field. Apparently the horse kicked him lightly, and that was enough.  The horse was then passed on to another ranch, in care of a young man barely out of his teens.  Before long, I heard that this young man and Chavello were in conflict; probably about money.  Caring for a horse costs.  Again I said to Chavello that he should let me have the horse for care.  Finally, the young man, Chelo, rode into my yard bareback on the horse, with only string for a bridle and no bit.  He left me and the horse in a haughty huff.

               By phone I asked Chavello if the horse had a saddle.  Apparently Chelo was holding it for ransom.  He told me he wanted 1,000 pesos.  A few days after he brought the bareback horse, the price had gone up to 2,000.  This time I brought a man with me, and offered 1,000 pesos.  He released the saddle, which I tossed into my spare room.

               Here I was, at last realizing a dream I’ve held for almost all of my 80 years.  My very own (and Chavello’s, in absencia) beautiful beast, haunches shining copper in the sunlight, white socks on his hind ankles, a ball of white on his face, between his eyes.  Like a shooting comet,  the fiery tail trailing down his long face splattered on the end of his nose.  I sensed that he was young; eventually I learned he is two years old.  You know, that is in horse years.  Actually I feel he has already passed his third birthday.  He is more than ready to be gelded, but Chavello may want to breed him so we put that off a while.

               This all reminds me of a few years back, when Jimmy offered me his potted strawberries.  He had a lot of them, and he had decided to get rid of them.  Without prior notice, he told me to come and take them away.  There I was, on Easter weekend, frantically trying to prepare my first garden bed to accommodate about 40 strawberry plants, half of them with pot broken and roots exposed.  RIP

               My horse has no place to lie his head.

               On my three acres there is plenty of grass and green stuff for him to graze.  He has also found his way over to my next-door neighbor’s field, which is fallow this year.  At least over there he can find shade from the burning midday sun, whereas my acreage has no shade trees.

               I tried to tie him, on a 20-yard rope, to a spot in the field, wrapping the rope around the base of a sapling huizache tree, many of which were popping up again.  As he wandered in the night he would go around and around these low bushy thorny things, shortening his rope until by the time I got to him at dawn, he was immobile.  Once I drove a six-inch spike down into the ground, leaving only enough exposed for a knot.  In the morning I found him stuck to a dead cedar tree.  In his wake he had knocked down the clothesline pole which had been set in concrete, landscape rocks strewn all about, and the spike trailing in the dust.

               I know I need a corral for him, and a stable.  Finding someone who could undertake such a project proved elusive.  Then one day, my new friend and I were chatting in the car on our way to her doctor’s appointment in Durango, when I asked her what work her husband did.  He’s a construction contractor, she said. Prayers answered, I arranged for him to come out to the ranch and build me a stable out of the old wood boards and poles that were stored here.  In four days it was done.

               Before this could be completed, though, I awoke one morning to find Pata Blanca’s morning cereal untouched.  I searched the grounds and nearby copse for him, to no avail.  My heart fell.  At last I had to tell Chavello.  He had various theories, certain that someone had taken him in the night.  My dog did not rouse me, however, so I was fairly certain no one had entered the grounds. Finally, the next day, he suggested that I should check Rancho Seco.  Well, I’ve heard that name many times, as if it is a landmark or something that I should surely know.  Jose Luis was just starting to build the stable, so I asked him about it.  Turns out, it is the next dusty outcropping of buildings down the dirt road towards the north.  The end of the trail, just a little further than I had ever walked.

               I jumped into the car and rushed over there.  It couldn’t have been more than 8 miles, if that.  I wandered the dusty streets, until at last I found him!  Three men were just dispersing from proximity to a corral, which looked like a stock loading bay. Inside an inner gated enclosure I saw, to my great relief, my very agitated horse.  With their permission I went inside.  His coat was slick with sweat, his inner butt cheeks white with sweaty froth.  It took him a while to slow his frantic pacing and really look at me, and smell me.  I stayed with him a few minutes, until he was calmer.  I rushed back home where I grabbed a bucket and bottles of water, and grain.  I also grabbed the stout 20-yard rope, and a thinner training rope of 10 feet.

               Before going back to Rancho Seco I looked for a neighbor with a horse trailer.  My nearest neighbor, Oscar, who originally had cared for the horse, was not home.  Then I went to the elderly gentleman I had recently come to know.  He has two riding horses, and a trailer.  When I got to his house he and his teenage son were heading for his car, about to go somewhere.  I asked for the use of the trailer, but of course, I could not haul it behind my Toyota Rav4 SUV.  He said I didn’t need a trailer, I could tie the horse to the car and ‘tow’ him that way.  Oof.

               Pata sucked all the water down, and crunched the oats.  Slowly I became conscious of my surroundings; the mares on the other side of the stone wall from this corral.  This is what had drawn him.  When I had first arrived, the horses had been loose and grazing in the field.  By the time I got back the second time, the horses and three colts were tied up to a tree at the stone wall.

               After the horse has drunk and eaten, I put his halter on.  I tied the rope to the back of the car, attaching it to the loop where the door catches when it closes.  I tried to shorten the rope considerably, it slid easily through the metal loop.  I hooked the other end of the rope to his halter, but he was still quite agitated.  I tried to get in the car, but he followed me around the car until his rope, trailing behind him, was under the driver’s side fender.  Then he panicked, feeling stuck, and reared up.  As he rose, so did the rope and the complete front quarter panel of my car, ripping through it like paper.

               One of the workers, a mature ‘chaparro’, Shorty, came to my aid while the young men worked in the field again.  They were dressed in dark blue shirts and jeans, while he looked more like a cowboy with a checkered shirt, worn jeans and cowboy boots.  He took charge, untied the horse, and told me to drive south just a dozen yards or so, until I was well past the mares.  He walked the horse to me, discarding the large rope and attaching the shorter one.  He sat in the tail of the car, the rear door yawning above him, and held the free end of the rope, and we began the long slow journey back to my house.  I kept my eye on the rearview mirror.  We started out at a walk, about two miles an hour.  I am thinking about the hoofs of the horse; three of the four hoofs have no shoes, and we are on an unpaved road strewn with sharp pebbles and rocks.  The horse speeds up a little, trotting.  I checked my speedometer, about 10 MPH.  Is he limping?  Is that his normal gait?  He slows to a walk again.  Then the wrangler yells out “whoa” and I hit the brakes.  He jumps off, as the horse attempts to rear.  We have reached a cattle grate, and the horse will not cross it.  That is its purpose, and there is a gate alongside he has to walk through.  Back in the car, he tells me to continue.  I creep along.  The horse is trotting, and then he slows to a walk.  The man jumps off momentarily, while I tap the brakes and he catches up. This road seems to go on forever.  I am taut with tension, watching behind me, in front of me, the side mirrors, keenly attentive. 

               At last we arrive at Luz de Compasión.  The wrangler, maintaining control of the horse, stays with me a little longer, while I arrange to tie the horse down.  Then I drive him back to his ranch.  The two dogs that ran alongside us all the way to Luz now decide to hang around, and not return home. 

               I fail to get the kind man’s name, nor phone number.  He tells me he knows a farrier, for tending the horse’s hoofs, but I fail to get that number, too.  I give him pesos to thank him for his time, and he returns to the field to regale the other workers with these events.


               After a worrisome day and a half, my horse is back home.  But now he is riled up, maybe it’s the testosterone, and he no longer wants to continue our lessons in the lunge ring.  We go around a time or two, but then he bolts, pulling the rope out of my hands.  Of course, a good lunge ring will have a fixed pole at the center upon which to attach the lunge rope, but our horse ranching infrastructure is still nascent.  Day after day I take him back into the lunge ring, but now his new behavior is set.  I switch to a lightweight but sturdy chain which is long enough to hold on to, I do yank him back each time he bolts, but I can see retraining him will be a monumental task fit for a younger person.


               I’ve gotten him a good snaffle bit, appropriate to introduce to a young horse.  He is more than ready for this step, except for all the stop-and-go in his training.  A couple weeks ago I called this old gent with the two horses, and invited him to come over and give me some tips.  While he was showing me how to put on this second-hand saddle, we discovered that it was missing a couple of little straps.  We fixed that with string.  When he or I put our foot in the stirrup, not so much to mount him as to introduce him to this new weight, he cocked his rear leg ready for the kick.  I managed to quell that reaction for the moment, but training him to the saddle will be another tough adventure.  I only hope that the owner will come down from the border next month and take care of these behavioral issues.  Chavello talks about bringing a filly to live here, and starting our own little fold.  This is a pipe dream, unless he decides to stay on the ranch full time. 

               Now that Pata has his very own house, the new stable, we have some new routines.  I only feed him oats and hay in that place, and at night.  As the sun lowers behind the mountain, he knows to walk into the stable and await his meal.  I lock him in.  In the morning as the sun rises I go out to see him, and I am still swooning at the new sound of his nickering when he sees me.  He struggles against me as I put his halter on, and then I swing wide the gate for the day.  I try to leave him to roam during the day, getting his fill from the pasture.  The halter is in place in case, for some reason, I need to grab him and stake him to his 20-yard rope. 

               Panfilo says he would like to come down to help out with the horse.  I think that is a lovely idea.  Time will tell if it is in the Lord’s plan for us.

               There you have it, an update on the latest changes to my country lifestyle. 

                

              

Monday, October 25, 2021

Good health


 I have had this coat in my closet for years. Occasionally I would try it on. It takes up so much space in my closet; why bother.  It was a joke, no way could the two sides meet in the middle. 


Now, 25 pounds lighter, I have a brand new stylish down jacket going into the winter. Reward and incentive to continue eating low-carb.


Tuesday, April 20, 2021

A brief but healing hejira

 

It is April 16.  Were she still with us, my mother would be 108 years old today.  Of more current history, I broke my right femur six months ago tomorrow, one of those life-altering events that can crop up.  “It takes six months to heal,” I was told, so that journey should be over by now.  Then why am I still limping, using a cane, being met by a wheelchair at airports.

I find myself in Irving, Texas, at a Comfort Suites as the guest of American Airlines.  There must be a special name for a day like this; a gift, a hiatus, a crack in the space-time continuum?  I should already have arrived home.  In fact, I should have been home two days ago.  Thanks to the pandemic the airlines are finding it difficult to stick to their usually rigid schedules.  I booked the flight from DFW airport two months ago, and since then airline traffic has surged, causing airlines to scramble.

As you can read elsewhere in this blog, my life over the past three years has known a deficit of social, spiritual and intellectual stimulation.  Not intending to be so literal, my ‘bloom where you’re planted’ philosophy kicked in; I turned my hand to an activity in reach…gardening.  I cultivated strawberries, planted a peach orchard, grew flowers to take to church and tried to propagate future shade trees.  I could not keep that up much longer, for the toll it was taking on my nearly-eighty year old joints.  And then I fell.

Stewing in my juices for six months with limited mobility created a fertile ground for exploring the ramifications of my current situation and future options.  One thing was certain, I missed interacting with friends and family. I miss having a purpose, where I could be of service to my family and community. I planned an exploratory expedition, to see what other options might be out there for a retirement plan, as soon as I am mobile and tickets can be bought.

Factoring into all this is the pandemic and the rollout of vaccinations.  People I consulted here in Durango, Mexico had no knowledge of any rollout plan for here.  Circumstances are such that if I visit my cousin in Florida I would be eligible to get a quick appointment there and be vaccinated.  Because the Moderna requires 28 days between first and second shot, I could only get the first one this way.  I decided to book my trip to take me to Florida at the end of the trip, before heading to Charlotte to board my return to Durango. 

Sunday night late I received a call.  If I want the vaccine, I should arrive tomorrow morning at a destination 30 minutes away, and get in line.  The vaccine has become available for those over 65 with last names at the beginning of the alphabet, A to D.  I did go, and waited all day until 4 p.m. when I was finally poked.  The workers would continue until 8 p.m.

Back in town, in Canatlan, I realized that the road in front of the hospital clinic was taped off and filled with lawn chairs.  The same thing was happening in Canatlan.  I don’t know why I had to drive to get mine, and I don’t care.  I’ve got my first dose.  The end of my trip will come before the required day 28, so there is no need to go to Tampa for the second shot.

Two days later, on Wednesday, I boarded the plane in Durango and began my trip.  First I would visit my sister, in western North Carolina.  We would drive to her son’s house near Raleigh and visit with the large family he has generated.  Another 5 hour drive would take us to another son, my godson Stephen, and after a long weekend he would take me to the Amtrak.  Then my sister and her husband would drive back to their home.  I would take a train from DC to New York and spend a couple of weeks with an old friend at his home in the ‘burbs up the Hudson. Eventually I would wind up back in Charlotte, visiting another cousin for an overnight before boarding the plane for the return trip.  I was due back in Durango on April 14.

As luck would have it, the day we were to drive from my sister’s house to her son’s house, there was a death in the family.  Sarah was my age, she was the cousin with whom I spent summer breaks.  She had been in the hospital for two months, for what was to be a routine outpatient surgery.  It was botched, and it all went downhill from there.  Thanks to Covid, no one got to visit with her and cheer her up.  We got word on Friday.  The wake was one day only, on Sunday, and the funeral Monday morning. 

We headed out to Dennis’s house near Raleigh, as planned.  Saturday evening Dennis’s clan gathered at one of the four grandsons’ home, and it was raucous. I didn’t count noses, but my nephew told me that when his kids and grandkids gather, which they frequently do, they are 18 people.

Via miscommunication under the same roof, my sister and I both managed to book flights from Raleigh to Newark.  I had to return mine.  Tried that lately?  Paperwork!  I also had to return my ticket for Tampa, for which I got another airline credit.  I couldn’t consolidate the credits, because each market has its most efficient airline; I used United, American and Jet Blue for various legs of the trip. 

 

When we reached Newark Airport my friend and his car were waiting for us at the curb.  Problem was, while we’ve talked and emailed regularly over the years, we have not seen each other in decades.  This strange white haired guy stood looking at me.  I shyly glanced and looked away and glanced again, until I finally asked, “Eddie?”  He drove us through the Lincoln Tunnel through horrendous traffic to Penn Station.  We said goodbyes; I asked permission for a hug.  I felt a skeleton under my hands, as I grabbed him by the shoulders.  I knew he had been losing weight, but this handful of bones shook me up. 

In the excitement of the car trip from the airport to Penn Station, me trying to talk to Eddie and my sister in the back seat giving a running commentary on what she was seeing of the city and on Eddie’s driving, I carted all my bags out of the car.  I meant, however, to leave one suitcase and a plastic bag of vitamins I had purchased last week.  These proved to be as millstones around my neck; in the end I forgot the vitamins in a cousin’s car in Bayshore.

I was pleased to have a traveling companion.  My sister has maintained a number of good friends on Long Island through the years, and so it was a fun adventure.  Except for the funeral, of course.  Only a handful of relatives were there, we have all gotten old; mostly the place was filled with her church friends, her Solidarity Sisters. There was no big family wake.

Once Sarah was safely in the ground Loretta and I went our separate ways.  A friend met her and carried her off, while also depositing me at the correct LIRR train line.

I managed to arrive at Penn Station without having to change at Jamaica.  Then the task was to find the subway to Grand Central Station, and then find the right train to Croton-on-Hudson.  All this, while lugging two stacked suitcases, a back-pack purse, and a cane.  Thankfully, my friend met me at his local station and I was able to relax for the next couple of weeks, more or less.

Eddie introduced me to his food regimen.  He showed me the book by Dr. Gundry.  I read key parts of the theory for this diet, and some sample meal plans.  The author’s bugaboo is lectin.  All lectin is eliminated.  The only grains that don’t have lectin are sorghum and millet, apparently.  All sugar is bad, even food naturally rich in sugar like ripe bananas.  More accurately, the degree of ripeness of the fruit or vegetable determines if the sugar is good or bad. No honey, not even agave syrup.  He uses no salt.  The nightshade family is eliminated.  On the positive side, he uses avocado and olives freely (the saturated fats).  My friend has taken things a step further.  The author includes chicken and fish, but my friend has gone completely vegan.  When he explained some of this on the phone before the trip, of course my burning question was, well what else is left?  He said it was complicated.  I thought it bears some resemblance to the paleo diet, which has helped other friends of mine get their weight under control.  Eddie lost a lot.  Never being a vain person, or could I say never holding much regard for his appearance, he is wearing clothes better sized for a fat man.  His clothes hang on him.  No part of his body is exposed, below the neck and cuffs.  It is painful to love someone like this, because he lives in his own world like a barricaded fortress.  There is no one’s opinion that matters except his own.  His two-bedroom rented apartment is wall to wall with books, music CDs and DVDs (and VHS).  We share the same taste in these areas, and so I listened to great music and watched either classic or hilarious videos.  Because my leg was still tender I did not venture any excursions to the city, the Big Apple.

 I didn’t bother to learn how to use his TV system. He has no Smart TVs.  I watched my Netflix account on my phone a little.  I am glad I did, because when I returned to Mexico I discovered that this series is not shown in Mexico.  The title is ‘the Last Tango in Halifax’.  It originates in the UK, although Halifax is in Canada.  IMDB tells me the series is about eight years old and filmed in England.  I managed to see about two and a half seasons, and enjoyed it immensely.  It is romantic and hilarious.  Jimmy and I talked about relationships and how, once family becomes involved, they can be destroyed.  When this retired widow and widower rekindle their childhood flame, the two families open a Pandora’s Box.

Eddie drove me to Newark to catch the last domestic flight on my itinerary.  I flew to Charlotte, where Jimmy met me again at the airport.  Originally this was meant to be a truncated visit.  My original plan had me arrive in Charlotte from Tampa at 8 pm, and return to the airport at 3 a.m. for a 5 a.m. departure to Dallas and Durango.  Thanks to all the itinerary changes and glitches, I arrived midday Sunday and departed early Friday.  This first cousin once-removed is about twelve years younger than me.  Once when he was 17 years old I spent a week or two babysitting with him and four of his five siblings in Escondido, California.  We got to be good friends.  I made a few attempts to help clarify what a removed cousin is; don’t know if it ever sunk in.  His mother was my first cousin. I am delighted with the prospect that, if I am granted low-income housing by the Hendersonville housing authority, I will get to visit with him at least once a month.

During my earlier visit with my sister she had suggested that I fill out an application with the Hendersonville Housing Authority for one of their rent-controlled elderly housing units.  There wasn’t enough time to fill out the form and submit it, but we did visit the office and obtained information.  That office is only open on Tuesday and Wednesday mornings.  So on Wednesday morning Jimmy drove me down to Hendersonville, a two-hour drive, and I spent time in the HHA office.  I submitted the completed application and had an eligibility interview. On the earlier visit the nice lady at reception had told me I was just the demographic they were looking for.  On the later visit I learned how much rent money I would have to pay, which would include gas and light.  Suddenly new possibilities appeared.

Now I am back home in El Pozole, in the County of Canatlan, in the State of Durango in the Sierra Madres.  I still have no hot water from the solar boiler on my roof, don’t know why.  The lovely hot showers I enjoyed over the past three weeks are just a memory.  My entertaining brood of kittens have scattered, and no longer feel permitted to come in the house.  On the one hand, the house will remain cleaner, no cat fur and bird feathers everywhere, no clutter pushed down from tables, no tissues torn apart across rooms.  But also no joy of watching their antics, flying and leaping, crouching with tail twitching, and sprawling along my legs sleeping.  The mother of the clan has not yet made an appearance, along with one black and white son.  The other son from that litter did show up today, unafraid to come inside, seeking my lap and comforting strokes.

My delightful mid-sized dog whom I call Baby Lalo was waiting for me when I got back.  His fur was dusky with rolled-in dirt and stunk of garbage.  I had left him with a friend, but he would go back and forth between her house and mine.  There were nights when she did not know where he was.  I suspect he was eating out of my neighbor’s garbage pit.  The first order of business was to bathe him.

I have to get into town to pay taxes, to get my second Moderna shot, and to consult with a town official about making my home marketable.  Technically I do not own the land my house is on.  Apparently the law permitting foreigners to own land was not passed until after this place was conceived, so this non-profit scheme was devised to get around that.  Now it needs to be sorted out so that I might get some reimbursement for my large investment, and move on with my life.  This is proving to be a complicated and lengthy process.

Compared to previous years, my acres look sun-dried and bleak.  Before I left, my little peach orchard was in bloom; I thought I would have peaches for the first time.  I toured them today and was surprised to find no buds, no tiny fruit, but branch tips dried and crinkly.  My friend tells me there was a bit of a hail storm while I was gone, knocking the buds off the fruit trees.  A disappointment for me, a financial disaster for citizens of El Pozole.  Our main income is from apple and pear trees.

I return refreshed.  I will struggle against slipping back into my normal apathy.  I will actively pursue a buyer for my house, be a responsible pet owner, and be more outgoing in seeing how I might serve my little community.  A brighter day is coming.

 

 

 

Thursday, February 04, 2021

Wriggling out of the COVID squeeze

 

Italy.  I feel that I’ve been trying to fit a round peg in a square hole my entire life. 

When I see Ruth in contrast to her sisters, I see what a strong and clear influence genes can have.  Her sisters inherit the WASP traits of their father.  Ruth is 100% Italian.  So much so, that a DNA search for relatives turned up her uncle, my brother, as her half brother!  Getting to know her Italian relatives seems to have been a revelation.  She found her round hole.

 

So, what would it be like to live among my blood relatives in Italy?  Would I find a more welcoming environment in the piedmont of my father’s roots, or the hot island climate of my mother’s. Where would this round peg fit most comfortably?

 

Thanks to COVID-19, satisfying this curious itch will be delayed.  Italy has the marvelous and unique (among EU) policy of welcoming home the children of their diasporas.  My 100% Italian blood guarantees me the right to apply for (and hopefully receive) Italian citizenship.  I have downloaded the forms, and gathered the necessary information ensuring my 100% pasta-affinity, right back to great-grandpa Pietro Anziano whom I will never know, because he never emigrated.  All I need is to sit before an Embassy administrator, turn over my paperwork, sign, fork over $300, and then voila! I can apply for an Italian passport and travel to Italy.  During the pandemic, Italy is closed to bearers of American passports.

 

The only hitch is, until the pandemic is over, the Embassy isn’t taking any appointments.

 

Well hey, you say, just wait a little longer and the dam will break. 

 

As 2020 wore on, psychologist and sociologists have increasingly sounded the alarm.  Sheltering in place is detrimental to your mental health.  You could go crazy, suicidal, spending too much time alone and without the warmth of human embrace.

 

Welcome to my world.  For the past three years I have lived alone here on this plateau, surrounded by cows and apples.  For a while at least, I had the companionship over the fence of a horse and a mule.  The farmer finally sold them off in the Fall.  I miss my buddies!  Now I see that it should not be such a surprise that my internal monologue has been growing more and more bizarre.  Thanks to the virus, my eyes have been opened and I am moved to action.  I have waited too long!!  While I further await the opening of my path to Italy, I am putting my house up for sale or rent.  This is a complicated process, because I must first gain ownership of the land my house sits on.  That process should keep me busy for a while. It's complicated.

 

The only better gift the pandemic could give me is death-by-virus.  But since I have extremely limited contact with other humans, at the supermarket, that’s not going to happen.  And there is your glimpse to how bizarre is my inner world.

Tuesday, September 01, 2020

Mexican culture: Death and Burial

 

About a year ago, this long lanky fellow came to my gate seeking translation help.  I knew him from the retired folks weekly club meeting.  Jose Miguel had a letter in his hand. It was in English from the Social Security administration.   A few days ago I went to his home because I heard he was sick and not eating.

I found him in bed, very weak.  I gave him a warm hug. I hadn’t seen him in many months and we had grown fond of each other during the project of communicating with the US Social Security Administration.

He had invited me to his home once before, but only to show me his vegetable garden. My own garden needed some help, and so he gave me some pointers.  I did not observe an actual home in the walled compound.  I did not know where he slept.

Last Sunday when I was in town to try to buy a ‘weed whacker’, I met another American Mexican.  Joe spoke perfect English, but did not look old enough to retire on a social security pension.  Apparently he had been here about three years ago.  During that time, he met and impregnated a local woman, with what was for her a change-of-life baby.  Before coming to Canatlan this year he spent three years in Guadalajara. Now he is here, looking for a place to rent or buy for his new family.  He has been here a month.  He is currently staying with Jose Miguel.

That Sunday in Canatlan we spoke about my home, and I extended an open invitation to come visit it and check it out.  Maybe at very least he’d like to house sit for me, giving me a chance to visit my friend in Oaxaca without worrying about my garden or my possessions?  We all know that if you leave a house empty, it is fair game for others to forage there.

Monday Joe came to my door. He told me that Jose Miguel was weak and not doing well, and would I come and take a look.  We got in my car and drove the mile to Jose’s compound.  I parked my car at his door on a path that looked more like a horse trail than a road.  It is very narrow, and my car was fully blocking passage.

Passed the threshold we entered the covered space (the foyer?) where a goat was tied and walked into an open space where chickens and cats ran loose,. Across the open space the narrow archway in front of us led to the garden.  We instead turned to the left, and found an actual door.  We walked into a tiny dark room, which led to another room equally tiny and dark.  In the second room there were two beds, one to the left and the other to the right under a window, and heaps of clothes at the foot. I saw no other furniture.  Once inside I looked back; the wall to the right of the doorway I saw a tiny wooden shelf, with a row of medicine bottles and boxes. Jose Miguel lay on the bed to the left, barely able to lift his head. 

I leant down and gave him a hug.  He held on to me for a long moment.  He held tightly to my hand as I sat on the edge of the bed.  After that warm hug, he told me of his recent medical adventures.  He had a prostate operation three months before.  In his mouth he had an infection on the lower gum, and on top a jagged fragment of a tooth.  Normally I saw him with a full mouth of teeth.  Without his dentures the right side of his mouth was toothless, and I could see both the jagged tooth fragment on top and the scabbed wound on the bottom.  For this, he had a bunch of pills, including an antibiotic.  None of this explained his current symptoms.  He showed me the results of his recent lab tests.  His white blood count was way up, his red cells few.  His blood pressure was on the low side.  He tapped his chest, saying sometimes he couldn’t catch his breath.  I understood that with such low blood pressure this might be the case, when he tried to walk.  It was also true that he was not eating much, I assumed it was because of the sore gum, which would also cause light-headedness and rapid pulse.  I listened, and gradually became aware that his hand was very hot.  His whole body was burning with fever.

My dogs had followed me into the courtyard, and were causing a ruckus with the chickens.  Jose got out of bed and went outside to restore order.  He went into the garden, followed by Joe, while I tried to get the dogs out of the compound.  Joe came back and said, “Come see what happened to Jose Miguel.”  I found him in the garden lying under a tree.  I extended an arm to get him up, but he said he needed a minute’s rest.  All of this was alarming to me, and so we bundled him up and got him to the doctor.  As it turns out, he is not using the hospital clinic, but rather a private doctor.  He came out of that office with another fistful of pills.  Prominent among them was ibuprofen.

Before returning home I bought a bunch of Ensure, since he obviously wasn’t eating enough.  I thought a clear beef broth might also be palliative, so I bought some beef and hoped his good friend Carmela, who lived across the path, would cook it for him.  We settled him back down in his bed, over the covers, and I went home to put into the blender the rest of a cooked vegetable medley I had in the fridge.  I brought him that and a spoon, and left.  He was burning up with fever.

The next day Joe came and said that, although Jose seemed a little more lively, he was still quite sick. At this point I am thinking Covid-19.  Jose finally admitted to having difficulty in breathing, and that combined with the high temperature that wasn’t coming down with NSAIDs, I felt a growing alarm and urgency to get him to the hospital clinic for a virus test.  That night, waiting for the test results, Joe stayed in my spare room. In hindsight, that was unnecessary since, if Jose Miguel did have the virus, Joe would already have been exposed.  That move proved problematic.

By now I had lost three working days, I had onion starters that needed to be planted, so I drove them into town and returned home.  They were at the hospital by 8 a.m., queued up to see a doctor.  I waited at home nervously, busying myself with baking a loaf of bread.

As this situation evolved, I came to learn that Jose Miguel’s sister had Covid!  The details of where she lives and has he had contact with her were just too difficult to come by.  Jose Miguel is a quiet man, and getting him to talk is a chore.  My usual hermit’s tranquility was thrown into a tornado, and at least until I knew the results of his Covid test I was not entertaining any other efforts to draw out the facts, the details.

I texted Joe at 9:45; any results?  He texted back that Jose was still with the doctor.  It was noon before I heard back again from Joe, and it was good news.  The Covid test came back negative.  I picked them up at the hospital in the late afternoon.  As we drove home, I asked Jose Miguel if he had the lab results.  “Tomorrow” is all he said. I wanted to read the results of all the medical tests he endured that day in the government clinic.  I am just plain curious why he had that particular set of symptoms.  Okay, I said we’d pick them up tomorrow.  He shook his head, raised his hand and with a smile he indicated it was not important.

Now Joe can move back in with Jose Miguel, although he seems rather devoid of nursing skills. Jose Miguel had been the cook, not Joe.  He paid no attention to the medicine schedule.  If Jose Miguel gave a polite negative reply to offer of food or water, Joe would drop it.  He is not solicitous.  On reflection, I might have felt better having Jose Miguel stay in my spare room, and let Joe have the other place to himself.  The weak man would have refused.

Joe did not move back in with Jose Miguel.  He claimed he could not sleep.  His bed was against the wall under the screened window, and he claimed that he could not sleep for all the mosquitoes.  He showed me his arms, which had a lot of red spots.  I worried about Jose Miguel sleeping alone.

The next day, after working hard in the yard and garden all morning, I wanted to relax in my recliner and watch a little tv.  Joe brought up a chair and sat beside me to also watch.  We each had called Jose Miguel’s phone a few times, but there was no answer. At one point of our TV viewing, Joe verbally wondered how Jose Miguel was. 

“Dead”, I replied.  I was annoyed that Joe was not concerned enough to physically go check on the sick man.  I thought he should not be left alone, but should have someone there with him.  And then there were all the animals, the goat, the chickens, and the litter of kittens.  Joe said there were close family ties, that his father and Jose Miguel had been very close friends from birth.  Jose Miguel knew who Joe was.  Jose Miguel had spent time working in the States.  Perhaps it was then that the friendship with Joe’s family was strong.  Joe called upon this connection to find housing when he returned recently to El Pozole.  As it turned out, housing during this time of pandemic is very hard to find.  Although Joe did not like the cramped primitive lifestyle, he was grateful to have a roof over his head.  After taking advantage of Jose Miguel’s hospitality, never considering how he was upending the hermit-like life of the older man, I thought Joe would feel obligated, if not bound by affection, to care for the sick old man.

When, in the end I discovered the true alcoholic nature of Joe, I understood better.  I know well the characteristics of that diseased personality type.  Now he sleeps under my roof.  I felt there was a viper in my midst.

As we watched TV that afternoon a neighbor called me and asked if I knew Jose Miguel was sick.  I told him about our visits to the doctors.  A couple of hours later he called me back, with the news that Jose Miguel was dead.

I had been prophetic.  Coincidentally I spoke the word at about the same time in the afternoon, 2 p.m. that Jose Miguel died.

Joe was finally mobilized.  He took my car and went to Jose Miguel’s rooms.  He returned after dark.  I drew information out of him, and realized that the body was already in a coffin and being waked in a room in El Pozole.  By now it was around 10 p.m.  I got up and grabbed the car keys.  Joe was surprised, I guess he was planning on going to sleep after the movie ended.  Calculating the situation with his own addict’s logic, he decided to come with me.

Marta’s house was just up the road, maybe 50 yards.  She had been waked in a room of that house.  I think that is the norm here.  But Jose Miguel’s residence was totally inadequate for the purpose, and so this room was cleaned up and outfitted for a wake.  It is on the corner, the place I think of as the center of downtown, like the intersection of Main Street and First Avenue.  It is unpaved, the narrow sidewalks are high against occasional flooding.  Down the road is the primary school house.  There are two ‘abarrotes’, little convenience stores, on that street.  One of the four corners is an empty shop whose entrance is covered and pillared, a rare pool of shade or respite from rain.

I took a seat on a curb alongside a few guys.  One was the neighbor, Armando, who had called me with the sad news.  We talked about what a good-hearted guy Jose Miguel was. We talked about other recent deaths.  The dryness of this rainy season, and the results on field and herd, also came up.

Finally I went inside to view the coffin.  The room was brightly lit, with cleanly swept tile flooring and folding chairs lined up at the wall.  A couple of hours earlier Joe had been there helping to prepare the room.  He followed me in, and he stood over the coffin crying with jerking sobs.  Given his recent slack attitude towards the ill man, I wondered if the tears were genuine or contrived.  I may never know.

I saw the familiar ladies there. I wondered when the rosary would be said.  Sitting in the doorway on alert with a paper in her hand, was Gloria, our town mayor.   In passing I touched her shoulder, but she did not look up to greet me.  She was busy passing information to another woman.  I hadn’t seen her in many months, and would have liked to exchange greetings with her.  I am still an outsider here, still learning the customs.  One very unfamiliar custom was the interment.  In observing Marta’s a couple of weeks earlier, I realized how very alien it was to what I was used to. This time around, in a couple of days, I would know what to expect of the basics. 

A full day of wake was followed by the funeral.  Marta’s had been at 4 p.m., so that the hard work at the cemetery would be done in waning heat.  At the last minute I learned that Jose’s would be at 11 a.m.  I was already in the middle of a project, and knew I could not clean up and arrive in time.  Around noon I drove out to the cemetery.

Near the entrance there is a prayer room.  The four walls are lined with chairs.  The coffin is set in the center of the rectangular room, and there is adequate room for standing.  Prayers are said, I do not know how standardized the activities are in this room.  The body lays there until the grave is prepared. 

I found a seat next to the man who had been pointed out to me to be Jose Miguel’s much younger brother.  We all were wearing masks, so I could not see his full face.  He brought his wife with him from their home in the tri-cities of Washington State. 

This is a common occurrence in El Pozole, where the deceased has relatives coming down from the States.  Imagine, these people have been gone for many years.  Some make summer visits, but many do not.  They have been missed, and now their extended families want to spend time with them.  I asked Manuel if he had a return ticket.  He did, and his departure was scheduled for the next day.  He was apologetic, knowing that he would leave many disappointed kin behind.  He has obligations at home, and could not afford to stay longer.  This was true of Marta’s two younger sons.  It is a rare blessing that her oldest son, Rudy, was granted a full month off by his boss.  He is walled up in his mother and grandmother’s home, cleaning and emptying the house, while he processes his grief.  He has to keep the front door locked and use earbuds, so relatives will not come banging on the door wanting to spend time with him. He carefully divides his time among the relatives, on his own terms.

The next question I asked Manual was one that had been simmering in my brain.  Did Jose Miguel have cancer?  This would explain so much.  Manual shared that his brother had lung cancer.  The older man had been a heavy smoker throughout his life. 

We had a long conversation.  It was a pleasant way to pass the time while the grave workers did their jobs.  I learned that their sister with Covid lives in Jose Gomez, hour away.  I noticed his wife watching us over his shoulder.  She seemed a small frail figure.  The veil that covered her head and draped her shoulders was of a neutral color, lending to the general effect of a dusty faded woman from another time.  Her wide fixed eyes gave the impression that she was looking at something curious, unable to comprehend.  Did she speak English?  Seems an odd question, since they live in the States, but she never opened her mouth.

Eventually I said goodbye and moved over to the grave site. The local customs make one wonder if the whole country is filled with robbers and thieves, corrupt to the core, this fact baked into the mindset of the entire culture.

The grave site was surrounded by a wrought iron picket fence.  There were a few other grave sites there, limiting the space for the team of workers.  The gate had the wording ‘El Pozole’ in wrought iron letters on the top.  I saw no family designation.  This small town cemetery shelters the deceased of many social and economic classes.  Some, like Marta’s, is covered on top with marble, or tiles, and headstones, maybe a crucifix, urns for flowers.  Marta’s still does not have her name; I mean to talk with Rudy about that.  Others are just mounds of dirt with a scrawny cross at the head of wood or metal, with old plastic flowers woven into them or buried.  There are so many graves with no markers.  The mounds of dirt are so close together that mourners tend to walk over them.  There is no master design, no neat pathways.

The hole had been dug, the concrete had been laid and set to create a thick-walled box awaiting the coffin.  This might have been done the day before; Joe told me he had been there helping with the dig.  Off to the side, a team carried bags of cement and pails of water.  The sound of the scraping shovel gave a background rhythm.

Eight men struggled with straps and footholds to lower the coffin, contending with mounds of dirt all around.  Once the coffin had been lowered into the box, some dirt and bits of wood to anchor it were lowered to place.  Whereas Marta’s coffin was the last, topmost, for that space, having her mother placed before her, Jose Miguel’s coffin would be the first and so the hole was very deep.  Maneuvering the coffin in place took time; the air was thick with voices, ‘a little to the left’, ‘careful now,’ ‘get your end over’, ‘come this way,’ each man precariously standing on the sloping mounds of dirt, those carrying the coffin in straps tripping and stumbling in the confined space.

Next, a number of pre-cut wood boards about three feet wide were set down on top of the thick concrete walls.  Buckets of cement conveyed across a human chain were poured over the boards. At last the mounds of dirt were put back.  I did not stay to see the finishing touches.  This will have to wait until I make a visit to his grave. 

And so I bid farewell to my dear Jose Miguel.  Now I understood why he would come to the tercera edad club meetings, which were so boring.  Our clubhouse is about 15 x 13 feet.  The early birds distribute the stack of plastic garden chairs.  He would come late and leave early, about an hour each time.  He would sit across from me, and his eyes would not leave my face.  Yet when I try to engage him in conversation, extend invitations to coffee or a meal at my place, he would not come.  He knew he was dying; why start a new relationship?  He didn’t have the strength to help me with the work on my farm.  These must have been his thoughts.  I would have been blessed to have even a short time with him, this gentle sweet soul.